Whilst perhaps not up to the standards found in modern production cars an MGBs braking system should provide decent performance, especially if you chose to replace the standard specification components with aftermarket performance upgrades. That’s not to say that standard pads and discs are inadequate, but simply that as technology has moved on, owners of MGBs can now take advantage of the numerous improvements now available to them.
Our own test car (BFL190B 1964 MGB) is somewhat of a workhorse, being used frequently by customers test driving our latest upgrades, and providing a platform for us to develop new and exciting products to enhance our range and contribute to the development of the MGB.
MGOC Spares Test Bed 1964 MGB
On the return trip from the Northern National in August, the car’s braking was decidedly lack lustre, there was no pedal pressure, noticeable steering wheel shake and the stopping distance was somewhere between the moon and Cambridge! Following a brief visit to the club’s workshop a new Master Cylinder was fitted, and this coupled with a recentlyRefurbished Brake Servo remedied the issues with the hydraulics; however the brake discs and pads required urgent attention and as we had recently taken delivery of brand new Calipers with Stainless Steel Pistons; we took a couple of hours away from the office to carry out this simple DIY job.
We opted for our own 25% Thicker Performance Brake Disc Package, as it comprised EBC pads which offered a high degree of temperature resistance, and anti-dust qualities. The kit also contains the MGOC Spares’ Slotted and Drilled Discs, which are great at dispersing heat by channelling air and brake dust away from the pads, thereby increasing cooling and minimising brake fade. New Lock Tabs, Pins and Retaining Clips were included with the kit and whilst this was sufficient to return the vehicle’s stopping power, we also wanted to test a production set of new Calipers fitted with Stainless Steel Pistons, fit some Stainless Steel Braided Brake Hoses and renew the Stainless Steel Dust Shields which were looking a little tatty.
MGB +25% Performace Brake Disc Upgrade w. EBC Green Stuff Pads - H592
The pleasing aesthetic of our black test car, with its Stainless Steel Oversills and Anthracite Centre Lock Alloys, lends itself to a Caliper Paint job. This would not only protect the caliper by offering an additional layer of heat resistant paint but would also add a little bit of period detailing between the spokes. It’s a simple job, taking around an hour to complete, requiring that we need only mask off the grease nipples, and bleed points before painting. It takes around 24 hours for the paint to fully harden off so this job should be done in advance.
Removal
The first job was to raise the front end of the car and make secure on axle stands, before removing the driving wheel and turning the hub assembly so that the caliper was positioned outwards for ease of access. Next we slid out the brake pads by removing the retaining pins and clips, and flattened caliper lock tabs with a large flat bladed screw driver so that we could remove the caliper retaining bolts. (As we were replacing the brake hoses with SS Braided Goodridge Hoses we didn’t tie the caliper out of the way. The workshop book advises that the caliper should be tied up to reduce the stress on the brake hose, so it’s worth having a stout piece of cord to hand before removing the top retaining bolt, if you intend to reuse them.) We then removed the hose from the caliper and directed it into a container to collect any draining brake fluid. A useful trick here is to use a piece cling film over the top of the master cylinder and place the cap back on, this provides an air tight seal and prevents the brake fluid ending up on your trouser leg!
Make the car secure on axle stands then remove road wheel and turn hub
Flatten lock tabs, before removing the calliper retaining bolts. (Tie up calliper if necessary)
To gain access to the disc we removed the grease cap from the wire wheel hub using a pair of pliers, and then removed the old split pin from the hub nut. The hub nut was removed with a 1 1/8” socket and the hub assembly carefully set to one side so as to prevent the smaller outer race from falling onto a dirty workshop floor.
Remove grease cap, split pin and hub nut, then carefully set the hub assembly to one side.
Using a ½” socket we removed and replaced the dust-shield taking the opportunity to inspect the MGB Evolution 3 front suspension assembly. We secured the worn disc in a bench vice and separated the hub from the disc using a 9/16” ring spanner and a socket. We carefully cleaned the hub splines and inspected them for wear, feeling for any sharp edges.
Replacement
Placing a thick cloth between the jaws of the vice we secured the new disc before torquing the hub using new fixings to 45lb. ft. (Pay close attention to the direction of the groves on the discs when bolting to the hub, as they're handed).
Fit the new disc being sure to check the direction of the grooves.
We smeared the bearings with LM Grease and slid the hub and disc assembly carefully back onto the hub, tightened up the hub nut to the recommended setting (40/70lb. ft), and inspected the end float, using the trial and error method of rotating the hub until there was the beginnings of resistance whilst still retaining a small out of play. We then aligned the hub nut to fit the new split pin and replaced the grease cap.
Using new Lock Tabs the replacement calipers were bolted onto the axle assembly, torquing them to 45lb. ft. before bending over the Lock Tabs to secure. New braided hoses were fitted to the calipers and then attached to the union with the nuts provided.
Having inspected the bearing end float, refit the hub assy. Using a new split pin, re-fit the caliper bending over the lock tabs to secure.
Conveniently the new EBC Greenstuff Pads came supplied with a packet of anti-squeal shims, attached using self-adhesive backing to the rear of the pad and trimmed with a Stanley knife. NB. Anti-squeal Shims can be purchased separately. Some Mintex Brake Lube was smeared on the sliders and the pads located into the rear of the caliper using the clips and pins supplied.
Trimming the anti-squeal shims
The Gunson Eezibleed provided a quick and convenient way to bleed down the brakes, by utilising the spare wheel’s air pressure vented into the brake master cylinder to replace the work of a colleague’s foot, just be sure to top up your brake fluid once completed. With the job completed it takes around 100 miles for the brakes to fully bed in, so we’ll have to be gentle on them for now but it’s good to know we have optimised the B’s stopping power.
Locate the new pads into the calliper using new pins and clips then bleed the system.
MGOC Spares offer a complete range of original and performance braking equipment, together with detailed advice on the most suitable specification tailored to suit your individual requirements.
Who are MGOC Spares?
At MGOC Spares, we provide dedicated parts and accessories for classic MG vehicles, including the MGB, Midget, MGC and many more.
With thousands of products in stock, we are your one-stop shop for all your classic car needs. Our wealth of expertise means that you can trust us to find the right part for your classic MG vehicle – whatever it may be.
Need support finding the right parts for your MG? Contact us today, we're happy to help!